Three Cuisines: the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

Around the world without leaving Boston.

Around the world without leaving Boston.
4/17/08
Brian Shen

Chinese

Good: Taiwan Cafe is a reasonably priced restaurant in Chinatown that serves authentic Taiwanese fare, including oyster omelets, Taiwanese sausage, mao po tofu, and various noodle dishes from Taiwanese style cuttlefish rice noodles to spicy beef stew noodles. Beware of ordering too much; if you intend to sample a variety of dishes, go with a large group. Vegetarian dishes that have more than plain tofu are available. Insider tip: ask the staff what kind of vegetables they have today — they will be more than happy to help you. Cash only. $ ***

Good: Shabu-Zen is a new flavor in the United States. Patrons walk into a restaurant filled with hot pots, where they can cook their own food in steaming pots of broth. This is authentic Taiwanese-style hot pot, which can be served with various different flavors. My favorite is either the strongly flavored Chinese herb or the Chinese spicy. But the less daring should order the half-and-half to sample one mild original and one spicy exotic flavor. This is a good place to experiment with during a night on the town. Afterward, head over to the North End to cool off with some walking around the pier, or try some Boba before you leave Chinatown. Accepts major credit cards and cash. $$ ***

Bad: Though we all frequent this beloved local joint, let’s be honest: Hong Kong Restaurant, Bar, and Lounge is not real Chinese food. The food is both bad and overpriced, but it's open for those long nights spent studying late. But if you want that late-night takeout fix, try the combination plates for the best deals. My favorite is the General Gau’s chicken with chicken fried rice and boneless spare ribs or crab rangoons. Also sometimes worth ordering are the relatively inexpensive scallion pancakes or spicy basil noodles. Don’t order the chow mein, because you’ll be surprised when you open your box of food and find a pile of bean sprouts. Takes major credit cards and cash. $$ *

French

Good: Sel de la Terre is an unpretentious restaurant that combines elegance with friendly service and great food. Relatively inexpensive for its great quality, this Provençal-style restaurant serves up a tasty $21 three-course prix fixe menu that is well worth the trek over to the Aquarium stop. Try their assiette de charcuterie, which is a country-style platter of rillettes and the best foie gras in the city served with warm toast, whole grain mustard, and spicy fruit compote. My favorite here is the duck confit served with a balsamic pomegranate reduction. Menu items are creative and always savory, with flavors balanced down to the last bite. The romantic atmosphere is great for a date. If you have time, also try their boulangerie, where you can purchase the various amuse bouche dishes, such as the foie gras mouse or the imported olives, to take home. Accepts major credit cards and cash. $$ ****

Bad: Despite being named the Best of Boston 2007 by Food & Wine Magazine, Craigie St. Bistro serves up outrageously expensive dishes in which the flavor fails to match the price. Chef Tony Maws serves up overly pretentious dishes in a space that is cozy to the point of being cramped. Though the diners seemed to be enjoying their dishes, the six-course chef’s tasting menu that I received was a great disappointment. More Asian-influenced than French, the various dishes did not have balanced flavors, and what claimed to be the best foie gras you can get turned out to be a great disappointment. Bring your date here if they need to be wowed by your money rather than your taste. Presentations are elegant and simple, but pretentious at the same time. This is not your average restaurant—you will be pleasantly surprised, but probably not wowed. For the best deal, try the $75 four-course prix fixe or the $55 Chef’s Whim, in which the chef creates dishes to your taste on the spot. A vegetarian version of the prix fixe is also available for $61. Takes major credit cards. $$$$ **

Ugly: Chez Henri is the worst of the worst in pretentious, overpriced French restaurants. The trio of duck might have been a great dish in concept, but in execution it was dry, tough, and too salty. The dessert was huge and much too sweet. If you do try this restaurant, stick to the prix fixe to avoid spending a fortune, but I wouldn’t waste the money or the time. Try either of the two restaurants named above for something cheaper and more rewarding. $$$$ *

Japanese

Good: Anything in the Porter Square Exchange is affordable and authentic. Try the sushi bar, Cafe Mami, the soba and udon restaurant, or the sit-down restaurant. Do not try the ramen unless you want it desperately. My favorite is the hamburger at Cafe Mami served with an egg on top, home-style, just like my mom used to make. Or try the sushi a la carte with other small dishes at the sit-down restaurant in the back. If you have time, check out the authentic Japanese bakery or the authentic Japanese market too. Cash only, except at the sit-down restaurant in the back. $$ ***

No ugly gets past Brian Shen ’11 (bshen@fas).

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